Exfoliation is one of the most powerful (and most misunderstood) steps in skincare. Done right, it smooths texture, unclogs pores, fades dullness and helps everything else absorb better. Done too often, it can leave skin sensitised and irritated. Here is a simple guide to the different exfoliating acids and enzymes, the formats they come in, and how to use them safely, the kkum way.
“Exfoliation isn’t about doing more or scrubbing harder - it’s about doing it gently, and consistently.”
The exfoliating acids (and enzymes)
“Chemical” exfoliants sound intense, but they simply loosen the bonds between dead skin cells so they shed more evenly - no scrubbing required. The main families differ by molecule size and where they work.
AHA - alpha hydroxy acids
Water-soluble acids (like glycolic and lactic acid) that work on the skin’s surface. Best for dullness, uneven tone, rough texture and early signs of ageing. They can be a little stronger, so start slow.
BHA - beta hydroxy acids
Oil-soluble (salicylic acid) so they get inside the pore itself, dissolving the oil and buildup that cause blackheads and breakouts. Ideal for oily, congested and acne-prone skin.
PHA - poly hydroxy acids
The gentlest acids, with larger molecules that exfoliate more slowly on the surface. They’re also hydrating and well tolerated, which makes them a great choice for sensitive or reactive skin.
Enzymes - the mildest option
Fruit and rice enzymes gently “digest” dead skin without acids, so they’re perfect for delicate skin or anyone easing into exfoliation. A mild, low-percentage daily toner like the Round Lab Dokdo Toner belongs here too: barely exfoliating, gentle enough for everyday use.
The formats: toner, pads, cleanser & more
The same acids show up in lots of textures - pick the format that fits your routine and how much control you want.
Toners & liquids are the most common: you control the amount and build up slowly. Pre-soaked pads are the easiest and most travel-friendly - one swipe and you’re done, but they can be easy to over-use. Exfoliating cleansers (like enzyme powders) rinse off, so they’re the gentlest way to add mild exfoliation daily. Rinse-off peeling gels give a satisfying “sweep away” in the shower a couple of times a week.
Who can use them, and how often?
Almost everyone can benefit from some exfoliation - the key is matching the strength and frequency to your skin. As a rule of thumb: start with once or twice a week, in the evening, and only increase if your skin is comfortable. Oily, resilient skin can often handle a bit more; dry, sensitive or barrier-compromised skin should stick to gentle PHAs or enzymes and go slowly.
Never skip SPF
This one is non-negotiable. Exfoliating removes the top layer of dead cells, which leaves fresh, newer skin more exposed and more sensitive to the sun. Using acids without daily sun protection can lead to irritation, dark spots and premature ageing - undoing all the good work. Always apply a broad-spectrum SPF every morning, and be especially diligent while you’re exfoliating regularly.
The takeaway
Exfoliation is simple once you know the basics: choose the right acid or enzyme for your skin, pick a format you’ll actually use, go gently and consistently, and protect your skin with SPF every day. Explore all our exfoliants and more at kkumskin.com.
Read next: Acne-Safe Skincare: gentle products for acne-prone skin →
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